The true story of Quartzsite, Arizona, the tiny, desert town from 'Nomadland' that attracts 2 million RVers and snowbirds every year

Melissa WileyMar 13, 2021, 01:54 IST

Actress Frances McDormand plays Fern, a widower who turns to van life after she loses her town and livelihood, in "Nomadland."© 20th Century Studios

Warning: Spoilers ahead for Golden Globe best picture "Nomadland."
The tiny desert town of Quartzsite, Arizona, is one of the main locations featured in "Nomadland."
Quartzsite is a real-life RVers' stomping ground that attracts up to 2 million visitors in the winter months.
Director Chloe Zhao called Quartzsite "one of the wildest towns" she's been to.

Chloe Zhao's "Nomadland" has swept this year's awards season, taking home both the Golden Globe and Critics' Choice awards for best picture and best director.

Based on a 2017 book by Jessica Bruder, the film follows the journey of Fern, a 61-year-old woman who turns to van life after she loses everything in the wake of the 2008 recession.

While Fern is a fictional character played by actress Frances McDormand, the places she visits, and many of the people she meets, exist in real life.

Zhao called Quartzsite, Arizona, a main filming location for the film, "one of the wildest towns" she's ever been to in a recent interview with Conde Nast Traveler.

It's "the place that nomads gather once a year - you really want to see what it's like. It's special," Zhao said.

"Quartzsite, Arizona, is a town and a meeting place," traveler Thomas Farley wrote in Rock & Gem magazine in 2017. "In winter it is a gathering of the clan for recreational vehicle snowbirds, flea market enthusiasts, ham radio operators, off-road motorists, geo-cachers, and rockhounds."

From the purported largest RV gathering in the world to gem and mineral shows to a man known as the naked bookseller, here is the real-life story of Quartzsite.

Quartzsite, Arizona, is one of the main filming locations for Golden Globe best picture "Nomadland" and a real-life nomads' stomping ground.

Frances McDormand plays Fern in "Nomadland." Searchlight Pictures

Quartzsite is a tiny town located in the Sonoran Desert 129 miles west of Phoenix with a permanent population of roughly 3,700 people.

An arrow shows the location of Quartzsite, Arizona. Google Maps

Each year, Quartzsite attracts up to 2 million visitors. It's particularly popular with van dwellers, who flock to its trade shows, 70-plus RV parks, and federal campgrounds during the winter months.

Snowbirds gather by a campfire in a Quartzsite, Arizona, RV park on January 24, 2011. Mark Boster/Los Angeles Times/Getty Images

Each year, Quartzsite attracts up to 2 million visitors. It's particularly popular with van dwellers, who flock to its trade shows, 70-plus RV parks, and federal campgrounds during the winter months.

In "Nomadland," Fern decides to make the pilgrimage to Quartzsite to join her friend Linda May at a real-life event called Rubber Tramp Rendevous, also known as RTR.

Fern, played by actress Frances McPherson, attends the Rubber Tramp Rendezvous founder Bob Wells. © 20th Century Studios

The RTR is an annual gathering of nomads run by Bob Wells, a van dweller since 1995 and founder of the blog Cheap RV Living, who plays himself in the film. The event is free to attend and takes place over two weeks in January.

Bob Wells in "Nomadland." © 20th Century Studios

The RTR is an annual gathering of nomads run by Bob Wells, a van dweller since 1995 and founder of the blog Cheap RV Living, who plays himself in the film. The event is free to attend and takes place over two weeks in January.

The goal of RTR is to provide van dwellers with essential survival skills and a sense of community. Seminars cover topics like how to go to the bathroom while on the road and how to stealth park.

A van dweller teaches RTR attendees how to properly defecate into a bucket in "Nomadland." © 20th Century Studios

The goal of RTR is to provide van dwellers with essential survival skills and a sense of community. Seminars cover topics like how to go to the bathroom while on the road and how to stealth park.

The inaugural RTR in 2010 started with 45 people and has grown over the years, according to the New York Times. In 2018, an estimated 3,000 nomads attended.

Van dwellers gather during the Rubber Tramp Rendezvous in "Nomadland." © 20th Century Studios

While in Quartzsite attending RTR, Fern heads to the Quartzsite Sports, Vacation & RV Show, an annual event that bills itself as the largest RV gathering in the world.

Left to right: Swankie and Linda May, nomads in real-life, attend the Quartzsite Sports, Vacation & RV Show with Fern (Frances McDormand) in "Nomadland." © 20th Century Studios

While in Quartzsite attending RTR, Fern heads to the Quartzsite Sports, Vacation & RV Show, an annual event that bills itself as the largest RV gathering in the world.

The event is over 40 years old and takes place from mid to late January. In 2021, it featured 400-plus exhibitors selling products catered to nomads and those who live outdoor lifestyles.

Recreational vehicles are parked in the La Posa long term visitor area in Quartzsite, Arizona. Mel Melcon/Los Angeles Times/Getty Images

The event is over 40 years old and takes place from mid to late January. In 2021, it featured 400-plus exhibitors selling products catered to nomads and those who live outdoor lifestyles.

One night, Fern goes line dancing at the Quartzsite Yacht Club, a real-life, boat-themed motel made up of a bar, restaurant, and hotel rooms housed in mobile homes.

RTR attendees dance at the Quartzsite Yacht Club in "Nomadland." © 20th Century Studios

At the conclusion of RTR, Fern watches attendees place a large cardboard van cutout into a fire. This tradition, among others, led the New York Times to dub the event the real 'Burning Man' in 2018.

RTR attendees place a cardboard van cutout into a fire in "Nomadland." © 20th Century Studios

At the conclusion of RTR, Fern watches attendees place a large cardboard van cutout into a fire. This tradition, among others, led the New York Times to dub the event the real 'Burning Man' in 2018.

Fern decides to stay in Quartzsite after RTR, finding work at a gem and mineral show.

Quartzsite is known as a rock collectors' heaven and hosts multiple gem shows and swap-meets throughout January and February. The town even made its slogan "the rock capital of the world."

Gems and minerals lay on tables at a show in Quartzsite, Arizona. FileImage/Shutterstock

Quartzsite is known as a rock collectors' heaven and hosts multiple gem shows and swap-meets throughout January and February. The town even made its slogan "the rock capital of the world."

Fern also attends a piano performance performed by famous Quartzsite resident Paul Winer. Winer, who passed away in 2019, was the owner of Reader's Oasis Books, and was known as the "naked bookseller" for walking around mostly nude.

Left: Paul Winer plays the piano in Quartzsite, Arizona, on February 11, 2011. Right: Winer performs in "Nomadland." Mark Boster/Los Angeles Times/Getty Images; © 20th Century Studios

Fern also attends a piano performance performed by famous Quartzsite resident Paul Winer. Winer, who passed away in 2019, was the owner of Reader's Oasis Books, and was known as the "naked bookseller" for walking around mostly nude.

Throughout Fern's time in Quartzsite, caravans of utility terrain vehicles (UTVs) can be seen in the background. UTVs and ATVs are a common sight in Quartzsite since it is the gateway to the Arizona Peace Trail, a 675-mile network of off-road vehicle trails.

Throughout Fern's time in Quartzsite, caravans of utility terrain vehicles (UTVs) can be seen in the background. UTVs and ATVs are a common sight in Quartzsite since it is the gateway to the Arizona Peace Trail, a 675-mile network of off-road vehicle trails.

Quartzside also hosts an annual parade every January for ATVs called the Hi Jolly Daze Parade. Owners of classic cars join in, and others build parade floats.

The annual ATV parade in Quartzsite rolls up Plymouth Avenue on February 12, 2011. Mark Boster/Los Angeles Times via Getty Images

The parade honors a Syrian camel trainer nicknamed "Hi Jolly" who came to the US in 1856 at the request of the government to help transport freight and people across the desert. He died in Quartzsite, and residents erected a tomb in his memory.

Hi Jolly's Tomb is pictured in the Quartzsite, Arizona, cemetery on July 3, 2019. Frederic J. Brown/AFP via Getty Images

The parade honors a Syrian camel trainer nicknamed "Hi Jolly" who came to the US in 1856 at the request of the government to help transport freight and people across the desert. He died in Quartzsite, and residents erected a tomb in his memory.

Fern eventually leaves Quartzsite to travel to various RV sites across the US, but returns to the desert town the following winter, like many real-life nomads do year after year.

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The true story of Quartzsite, Arizona, the tiny, desert town from 'Nomadland' that attracts 2 million RVers and snowbirds every year

Quartzsite, Arizona, is one of the main filming locations for Golden Globe best picture "Nomadland" and a real-life nomads' stomping ground.

Quartzsite is a tiny town located in the Sonoran Desert 129 miles west of Phoenix with a permanent population of roughly 3,700 people.

Each year, Quartzsite attracts up to 2 million visitors. It's particularly popular with van dwellers, who flock to its trade shows, 70-plus RV parks, and federal campgrounds during the winter months.

In "Nomadland," Fern decides to make the pilgrimage to Quartzsite to join her friend Linda May at a real-life event called Rubber Tramp Rendevous, also known as RTR.

The RTR is an annual gathering of nomads run by Bob Wells, a van dweller since 1995 and founder of the blog Cheap RV Living, who plays himself in the film. The event is free to attend and takes place over two weeks in January.

The goal of RTR is to provide van dwellers with essential survival skills and a sense of community. Seminars cover topics like how to go to the bathroom while on the road and how to stealth park.

The inaugural RTR in 2010 started with 45 people and has grown over the years, according to the New York Times. In 2018, an estimated 3,000 nomads attended.

While in Quartzsite attending RTR, Fern heads to the Quartzsite Sports, Vacation & RV Show, an annual event that bills itself as the largest RV gathering in the world.

The event is over 40 years old and takes place from mid to late January. In 2021, it featured 400-plus exhibitors selling products catered to nomads and those who live outdoor lifestyles.

One night, Fern goes line dancing at the Quartzsite Yacht Club, a real-life, boat-themed motel made up of a bar, restaurant, and hotel rooms housed in mobile homes.

At the conclusion of RTR, Fern watches attendees place a large cardboard van cutout into a fire. This tradition, among others, led the New York Times to dub the event the real 'Burning Man' in 2018.

Fern decides to stay in Quartzsite after RTR, finding work at a gem and mineral show.

Quartzsite is known as a rock collectors' heaven and hosts multiple gem shows and swap-meets throughout January and February. The town even made its slogan "the rock capital of the world."

Fern also attends a piano performance performed by famous Quartzsite resident Paul Winer. Winer, who passed away in 2019, was the owner of Reader's Oasis Books, and was known as the "naked bookseller" for walking around mostly nude.

Throughout Fern's time in Quartzsite, caravans of utility terrain vehicles (UTVs) can be seen in the background. UTVs and ATVs are a common sight in Quartzsite since it is the gateway to the Arizona Peace Trail, a 675-mile network of off-road vehicle trails.

Quartzside also hosts an annual parade every January for ATVs called the Hi Jolly Daze Parade. Owners of classic cars join in, and others build parade floats.

The parade honors a Syrian camel trainer nicknamed "Hi Jolly" who came to the US in 1856 at the request of the government to help transport freight and people across the desert. He died in Quartzsite, and residents erected a tomb in his memory.

Fern eventually leaves Quartzsite to travel to various RV sites across the US, but returns to the desert town the following winter, like many real-life nomads do year after year.