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I tried both Amtrak's new food service and its traditional dining car, and now I understand why people were so upset about the change

Graham Rapier   

I tried both Amtrak's new food service and its traditional dining car, and now I understand why people were so upset about the change
Business1 min read

steak

Graham Rapier / Business Insider

A custom-cooked steak on an Amtrak train seemed too good to be true, but it wasn't.

Surf and turf was far from what I expected to eat on my first cross-country Amtrak trip.

I had previously reported on a massive backlash to some dining-car changes on shorter routes, where custom-cooked food is going by the wayside, but the promise of gourmet eats on a moving train in the middle of North Dakota seemed far-fetched to say the least.

Determined to figure out for myself what was behind the hype, I set off on Amtrak's Empire Builder in Chicago last week. Over three days - and five meals - we crossed through wide expanses of the American heartland, through towns large and small, and past beautiful snow-capped peaks.

Read more: It took me 96 hours to ride an Amtrak train from coast to coast. I'd do it again in a heartbeat.

To be sure, the food on this part of my journey was a stark difference from my introduction to dining on rails. On the first half of the trek from coast to coast, I tried Amtrak's new "contemporary" meal service, which has rolled out on some routes east of the Mississippi River.

But after Chicago, things improved massively. Here's what we ate:

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